Day 1
Arrival by train in Rome
I arrived in Rome two hours earlier than expected. My night train stopped in Florence at 8 AM, where everyone was unexpectedly told to get off.
The original schedule had me arriving in Rome after 11 AM, well rested, brakfast in my belly, who knows maybe even showered – yes my compartment had a bathroom. Instead I was standing there on a platform all groogy and disoriented. Fortunately, Florence’s station is super well-organized. I quickly spotted a train to Rome, and boarded it without paying much attention to what kind of train it was, and an hour later, I arrived in Rome.
Helene picked me up and kindly invited me to catch some z’s at her flat, just a five minute walk from the station. After waking up in a much better mood, we took a stroll through the city to pass the time until our first meeting in the evening with the other participants of the Gardeniser Exchange.
Garbatella / Meeting the Colleagues
In the late afternoon, Helene accompanied me to my B&B in Garbatella, where I would stay for the next six days. I the eveing we met a group of Gardeniser Pro graduates from Colombia who were in Rome to complete the practical part of the certificate. Andrea Messori of the Replay Network welcomed us all and then drove us in his car to the restaurant, as rain seemed
imminent. Over the next few days, I couldn’t resist poking fun at Romans’ love of cars and reluctance to use public transport or electric Vespas. Aren’t they the symbol of Rome?
At the restaurant, we enjoyed delicious Roman specialties and tried to get to know our colleagues. Unfortunately, the language barrier—no English from them, no Spanish from us—proved challenging throughout the week. Later, Mattia Modesti brought two more participants from Seville, Jose and Rosio. Luckily, Jose spoke English and, along with Andrea, Carlotta and Mattia, became our communication bridge for the
Day 2
Meeting Sabirina Alfonsi
At 8:30 AM, we gathered near the flat where our Colombian colleagues were staying. We were introduced to another participant from Colombia, a representative of the municipal government of Barranquilla. We headed then to the office of Sabrina Alfonsi, the Councillor for Agriculture, Environment, and Waste Cycle of the Municipality of Rome, as well as the delegate for the Department of Social Policy and Health. There, we met Andrea, who shared with us his excitement about a new piece of legislation soon to be voted on in Rome’s parliament. This law will finally provide a proper framework for urban gardens, which have operated without legal status until now. It will clarify the roles and commitments of both the city and the gardeners, and secure funding for the development of these green spaces and their projects. Sabrina Alfonsi played a crucial part in bringing this legislation to Rome’s parliament.
While waiting for our appointment we also learned about Rome’s abundant water supply. Similar to ancient times, Rome still receives water from natural springs and lakes through a modern network of aqueducts, primarily sourced from the nearby mountains and regions like the Lago di Bracciano and Lago di Nemi. The city is dotted with public drinking fountains, known as nasoni, which offer clean, free water to residents and visitors. One of these, conveniently located outside Ms. Alfonsi’s office, served as a prop for a quick lesson on how to drink from them—resulting in some amusing attempts and plenty of snapshots.
Once inside the office, Ms. Alfonsi spoke about the role urban gardens play in strengthening local communities and their broader impact on the city’s culture, politics, and social policies. Afterward, there was a Q&A session where we had the opportunity to ask questions about the new legislation and other issues specific to Rome. I was struck by Ms. Alfonsi’s forward-thinking approach, as well as the active involvement of the municipal representative from Barranquilla. Throughout the week, it was inspiring to see him and the Colombian Gardenisers exchanging ideas, sharing insights, and drawing inspiration from the urban gardening practices they experienced in Rome.
Visit to Urban Garden Garbatella
After this visit, we headed to our first garden – Urban Garden Garbatella – where we were introduced to the long and complex process behind its creation. Andrea shared the strategy that the community of Garbatella chose to transform a piece of land that was previously used as a parking lot and then garbage dump into an amazing green space consisting of: urban garden, park with urban forest, playground for kids, an outdoor gym, and a dog park. What stood out to me was the importance of starting small, focusing on what is manageable, and gradually expanding by partnering with other organizations, in need of space, to help bring the project to life.
We took a short tour of the garden, which featured numerous well-maintained plots, a wild vine pergola offering shelter from the scorching Roman sun, and a communal orchard with a variety of fruit trees. There were also some beehives, which had played a crucial role in supporting the ecosystem. Unfortunately, the entire colony had been wiped out the week before our visit by an invasion of Asian hornets, a devastating event for the garden.
Urban Garden Valle del Casali
In the afternoon, we visited two gardens located next to each other. One was on municipal land, while the other was on private property. Andrea explained the legal complexities of maintaining a garden on private land, stressing the importance of the upcoming vote on the legislation.
First, we visited the Garden Valle del Casali on municipal land, where the garden’s coordinator, Elisabeth, and her colleagues outlined the garden’s history and highlighted various community projects. The garden looked very well looked after, with well-maintained plots, a communal outdoor kitchen, a roofed sitting/eating area, where the gardeners organize dinners and other social events.
I was particularly fascinated by their collaboration with a research institute and schoolchildren to preserve ancient cereals, and by their ingenious hydroponic system. I was also amazed by their toilet facility—despite its ordinary, although nice red, porta-potty exterior, the interior was so comfortable, inviting, and beautifully decorated that I didn’t want to leave. This sense of care and attention extended to the entire visit, where we were offered snacks and drinks. We would’ve loved to stay longer and discuss in depth the garden’s various projects, but, running short on time, had to leave to visit the other garden.
Social Garden Arvalia
At the Social Garden Arvalia, we learned about the gardeners’ ongoing struggle to maintain their space and gain acceptance from the city. Once again, hopes were expressed for the upcoming legislation.
This time, we had the chance to speak with the gardeners, admire their plants, and learn Roman recipes for various greens.
After sharing wine and snacks, we parted, dancing to a Colombian song played by one of the gardeners on his phone. It was a truly endearing experience.
Day 3
Visit to the FAO
In the morning, we took the metro to Circo Massimo, where the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) has its headquarters. We were given a tour of the building, learning about FAO’s mission to combat hunger and improve nutrition through sustainable agriculture. Afterward, we visited the rooftop terrace, which serves as a canteen and offers stunning views of ancient Roman ruins, framed by the greenery of the Palatine and Aventine hills. Hopefully, the view does what spreadsheets and meetings never can—rouse a flicker of real insight.
Here, we also met Cecilia Marocchino, who works on the “Meeting Urban Food Needs” project, focusing on integrating food systems into urban planning. She expressed a keen interest in collaborating with our Colombian colleagues to develop sustainable urban gardens in impoverished areas of Barranquilla.
Urban Garden Monte Ciocci
After a lunch break, we headed to the Urban Garden Monte Ciocci, situated on the hills west of the Vatican, with breathtaking views of the city.
The place had a cozy feel to it with well-defined areas of cultivation and leisure. We were welcomed by Flavio, who just came back from the Gardeniser exchange in Vienna, along with other gardeners and volunteers. We sat in a cozy sitting area surrounded by trees, where the gardeners shared personal stories about how they became part of this community and explained the garden’s mission and its various projects. One initiative that particularly stood out to me was the ambitious plan to develop an aquaponic system on a plot that, until recently, held a large TV antenna. The land was granted to the garden after a successful protest by local citizens, who fought against plans to sell it to a developer intending to build an exclusive condominium. It’s a powerful example of how a united community effort can secure land and transform it into a green space accessible to all.
One aspect of the garden’s structure resonated with me. Around 50 core members officially tend the plots, while many volunteers assist with various projects and help maintain the common areas. These volunteers receive priority for membership when a spot becomes available, an idea I would love to implement in our garden.
Once again, we were treated to snacks and refreshments, but we had to rush back onto the bus to visit another garden in a different part of the city.
Urban Garden Via della Consolata
We then headed south to visit the Urban Garden on Via della Consolata. This garden couldn’t have been more different from the one we’d just visited. Located next to a busy street, it’s shielded by a line of trees. The garden has large plots, each bordered by laurel hedges and featuring a small house. Unlike Monte Ciocci, the plots here were quite uniform, with gardeners cultivating similar varieties of vegetables. The soil appeared freshly tilled, with newly planted seedlings for the autumn crops already in place.
All of a sudden, an impressive dead palm tree caught our attention. It was yet another victim of the palm weevil, an invasive pest that has been devastating palms across Italy. Seeing the damage caused by non-native pests in Italy hit close to home. In Northern Europe, we’re grappling with similar issues as invasive species disrupt our ecosystems, thriving without natural predators to keep them in check.
Another intriguing landmark was a group of laurel trees forming a square structure, which turned out to be a hidden BBQ area where men were grilling meat. We didn’t immediately realize that they were preparing dinner for us. Soon enough, we were invited to join them for bruschettas made with garden-fresh tomatoes, bread, grilled meat, and wine. I can only hope that Viennese gardens will be just as generous and welcoming when it’s our turn to host.
Day 4
Meeting with Environment Commisssion and Community Garden office of Rome
We met with Gianmarco Palmieri, the President of the Environmental Commission for the city of Rome, along with his assistants Annamaria Appendini and Paola Marsi. Their office was just a short walk from our usual meeting point. As usual, we made introductions in three languages.
Our discussion focused on the upcoming environmental legislation and the challenges involved. The legislation had been prepared by the gardeners themselves and then negotiated with the local government of each municipality, with the support of these three members of the environmental commission and the team from Replay Network.
Urban Garden Orto 9
After the meeting at the Environmental Commission – fingers crossed for the legislation – we boarded the bus and were taken to Urban Garden Orto 9. This garden exists in exchange for taking care of the hectares of adjacent municipal land that serves as a green space for the inhabitants of the neighbourhood. For that purpose, the garden owns some serious machinery to help with maintenance.
The garden organizes a variety of community projects, collaborating with school children, senior citizens, and hosting events. They also rent the space for various functions.
A 30-square-meter office in a wooden hut is available for meetings during bad weather, while in good weather, there are plenty of outdoor spaces for gatherings. The garden coordinators are especially pleased to see students using the space to do schoolwork but also engaging with and learning from the garden itself.
I’m not sure whether or how much it costs to rent these spaces. As usual, the visit was very dense, and I didn’t catch the details.
The members of the board were particularly proud of their many EU-funded projects. One of them involved special raised garden beds designed to be accessible for people with disabilities.
Unfortunately, I missed the afternoon visit because I wasn’t feeling well. Helene kept me updated with photos, and the next
day she shared the details of the projects at Urban Gardens Valle dell’Aniene and Aguzzano. From her descriptions, it
sounded like there was a lot going on, with interesting initiatives taking place in both gardens.
Day 5
Cooperativa Garibaldi
In the morning on our last day of visiting gardens, we took the metro and a bus to the southern suburbs of Rome. There are five high schools side by side there, and one of them, the Giuseppe Garibaldi Agricultural Technical Institute, donated their land—if I understood it correctly—to a social project that supports people on the autism spectrum in learning skills for more independent living.
At Cooperativa Garibaldi, these young individuals gain independence through their work in the gardens, kitchen, and café, where they interact with people from outside the project. There is also a small stall, soon to be expanded into a shop, where produce from the garden is sold to the students’ families and to staff and students from nearby schools.
On the property, which includes a large vegetable garden, there was a beautiful villa that also functions as an agriturismo, complete with a fully equipped kitchen, a café, and guest rooms on the upper floor. The villa also had a dining area on the terrace, where we were treated to a homemade Italian lunch—an abundant four-course meal with homemade bread.
It’s an incredible initiative that gives these young people opportunities to connect with others beyond their families and caregivers, all within an idyllic, nature-based setting. The integration of nature here is especially powerful, fostering not only their skills but also enhancing their emotional and mental well-being—a reminder of the profound therapeutic impact that natural environments can have on personal growth and social development.
Gli Orti della GRU
Day 6
Last Day – Evaluation and Good-byes
On our last day, we met with Mattia and Andrea at the Replay Network office to evaluate our experience from the past week. It was interesting to hear the impressions of the other three participants—the Colombians were absent, as they were staying for another week to complete the practical part of their Gardeniser Pro certificate.
We all agreed that the intensity of the program, the sheer amount of information, and switching between three languages had been taxing. Still, we were incredibly grateful for the experience.
Our final stop was Tor Tre Teste, a large and active garden with 50 allotments. The space was full of life, with gardeners tending to their plants, and it was clear this garden was flourishing. I was so saturated with the impressions of the day that I couldn’t pay attention to the garden’s history or how it was organized—I simply wanted to enjoy the sight of people working, their plants thriving, and to savor the warmth of the setting sun on my last evening in an urban garden in Rome.
Afterwards, we met the Colombians in the city center for a farewell lunch at a typical Roman cervecería. After lunch, we visited a few tourist landmarks, which was challenging on a busy Saturday. Andrea, however, found a quieter route between the attractions, and along the way, we stumbled upon sculptures by Colombian artist Fernando Botero, which especially delighted the Colombians.
By mid-afternoon, some of us were completely exhausted and unable to join everyone for the final celebration at the Orto 9 Beer Fest in the evening. Instead, I had one last Roman meal with Jose and Rosio at our local eatery. Later, I took a quiet walk around Garbatella, trying to process the intensity of the past five days.
A big kudos to the incredible team at Replay Network for organizing such an intensive and rewarding program. I only wish we had had more time to engage more deeply with the gardeners themselves—though, admittedly, the language barrier could have been a challenge. Still, seeing such a rich diversity of spaces—from mountains to wetlands, and everything in between—and meeting with local politicians was an experience I won’t soon forget. GRAZIE MILLE!
Grazie mille and HASTA PRONTO to my wonderful colleagues, whose eagerness to learn, exchange, and maintain good humor—despite the challenges of not sharing a common language—made this an unforgettable experience.
